The Best New Ladies’ Timepieces for 2022, From Watches and Wonders

(Bloomberg) -- These 10 ladies’ watches were standouts among the debutantes at Watches and Wonders earlier this month in Geneva. In addition to outlining the various specs, we asked for commentary from five formidable female watch collectors. Their collective verdict? Watch brands are starting to “get” women.

Here’s what you need to know.

Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Heures Florales

This is the horological equivalent of a prima ballerina—feminine and seemingly delicate on the outside, but driven by the power and precision of a pro athlete. The 3D enamel flowers unfurl randomly once an hour, so that at, at six o’clock, precisely six flowers open to reveal a diamond center. (You can see how it works on YouTube.) Minutes appear on a retrograde scale on the case side—not that you’re really wearing this gem to tell the time. Price: $246,000

Collector comment: “Whimsical, happy, beautiful, engaging. It needs to be seen in motion to be truly appreciated. I laughed out loud when I watched the video.” —Virginia Simmons, Boston

Coussin de Cartier

Cartier showed a number of marvels at the Watches and Wonders fair, including a set of watches that are actually squishy to the touch. The Coussin (cushion) seen here is the latest in a long tradition of shaped watches by Cartier, set with green tsavorites and Paraiba tourmalines, held in place by low-profile metal triangles rather than prongs, so more of the gem shows above the surface. Just for fun, the tsavorites are set upside down, with pavilions pointing upwards. Price:  $58,500

Collector comment:  “I am a big fan of the inverted setting, and the cushion shape reminds me of one of my personal grail pieces, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5020J. The color combination is a knockout, and demonstrates Cartier’s standard of elegance with a dash of edgy allure.”
—Taylor Wos, Washington, D.C.

Patek Philippe Moon Phase Ref. 7121 

Given the technical prowess of its movements, it makes sense that Patek would find an extraordinary way to showcase diamonds. Here they are staggered in two offset rows in a dentelle (lace) setting that allows more light into each gem, creating more dazzle. The ultra-slim caliber 215 gives this white gold/blue dial version of the ladies’ moon phase a wearable, 33mm x 8.35mm profile. Price: $42,580

Collector comment:  “It has a gorgeous, modern look to the dial, but a retro case, with the vintage-style screwed lugs. Just the right amount of diamonds to wear to any occasion, and an aesthetically pleasing complication.” —Beth Jonas, Florida and Utah

Chanel Boy-Friend Skeleton Red Edition

Coco Chanel, who loved the color red, advised: “If you’re sad or heartbroken, make yourself up, dress up, add more red lipstick and attack.” This version of the angular, openworked Boy-Friend watch features a bezel of 38 ruby baguettes, matched by a special finish applied to the bridges of the movement. It’s ready to attack on cue. Price: $149,700. 

Collector comment:  “I love that it has traditional masculine elements while still being fiercely feminine and utterly elegant. The skeletonized movement speaks to the increasing watchmaking prowess of Chanel.” —Taylor Wos, Washington, D.C.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Dazzling Star

This timepiece features a shooting star that emerges and flies around the dial seemingly at random: the mechanism stores energy generated from the wearer, so the more you walk around and swing your arms, the more chances you’ll have to see the star. The dial is made of three levels of aventurine; the case and bezel are set with 1.48 carats of diamonds. Price: $75,500

Collector comment:  “To me this watch could be worn by men or women. I could see Jimmy Page rocking it with his velvet moon pants!” —Virginia Simmons, Boston

Vacheron Constantin Ladies’ Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar

Surprisingly, this is the first ladies’ perpetual calendar from Vacheron Constantin, a wizard of complicated movements since 1755. It was worth the wait. The ultraslim movement is the same used in men’s perpetual calendars in the Overseas and Patrimony collections. The mother-of-pearl dial is feminine but not fussy. Price: $87,500

Collector comment:  “I’m a purist, but I’ve slowly come around to mother-of-pearl dials, and the proportions and the colors here are harmonious. Of course, nothing but respect for the movement.” —Jane Chon, New York City

Rolex Yachtmaster 40

This sequel to the cultish rainbow Yachtmaster (set with multi-colored sapphires) is set with trapeze-cut pink, blue and purple sapphires, inspired by the aurora borealis. All these, and the 46 diamonds in the case and lugs, really signify that this is ladies’ watch, but a man could pull it off, especially with the black Oysterflex strap. Price: $80,350 (contact a dealer for purchase)

Collector comment:  “I own the rainbow version of this watch, and I absolutely love it! The black Oysterflex strap is super comfortable and works well for black tie events. I wish I could add this one to my collection too. It’s gorgeous!” —Beth Jonas, Florida and Utah

Piaget Limelight Gala Precious

The Limelight Gala has been around since 1973, but the design, with its asymmetrical lugs and ringed dial configuration, is open to multiple interpretations. Here, a malachite outer dial and pavé diamond inner dial are framed by lugs set with a gradient of tsavorites. And the hand-engraved birch-bark bracelet never gets old. Price: $129,000

Collector comment:  “This is a very strong piece for me. I love the use of color and proportion, texture and shape. The striations in the malachite dial complement the bark-style engraving on the integrated bracelet.” —Taylor Wos, Washington, DC

Chopard Happy Sport Chronograph

Chopard’s iconic dancing diamonds have never looked happier than right here, surrounded by a solid gold case, dial, bezel, crown, and pump pushers. Super-LumiNova on the hands and markers keeps it sporty. Price: $31,200

Collector comment:  “I am happy to see that they have increased the size to 40mm, giving it an overall sportier look which many female collectors have been asking for—something less feminine and more gender neutral. And with so many brands focusing on sustainability, it is great to see Chopard has continued its commitment to using ethically sourced gold.” —Lung Lung Thun, Hong Kong 

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Classic

The gems on this minimalist jewelry watch are surrounded by webs of gold wires in a barleycorn pattern, not unlike layers of color separated by gold rims on a cloisonné enamel dial. The case and dial are set with more than 1,000 diamonds totaling 2.90 carats. Price: $65,000 (contact a dealer for purchase.)

Collector comment:  “There is something kind of … for lack of a better word, badass about this watch. I could see it on a female action hero in a movie.” —Virginia Simmons, Boston

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