A stroll around the lanes and bylanes of Mandawa in the western state of Rajasthan feels like a fall down a rabbit hole. The town and the region is famous for its frescoed havelis, earning the Shekhawati region the moniker of 'the world's largest open air art gallery'. For two years now, amid the Covid-19 pandemic, this town and its art has seen hardly any visitors. Mandawa is among India's popular international tourist destinations,...